Showing posts with label Annemarie Schwarzenbach. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Annemarie Schwarzenbach. Show all posts

06/03/2020

The Desire for Recognition, Jenn Shapland and Carson McCullers





The titles of Carson McCullers’s books had always struck a chord with me. The Heart Is a Lonely Hunter. Like, same. But I’d never gotten around to reading any of her work. Books seem to find me when I’m ready for them. Hers didn’t until the second year of my PhD program, when I was an intern at the Harry Ransom Center, which houses a giant collection of writers’ and artists’ books, papers, photographs, and artworks at the University of Texas at Austin

One day, a scholar wrote asking for letters between McCullers and Annemarie Clarac-Schwarzenbach, whose name was utterly unfamiliar to me. I took the freight elevator to the icy basement manuscript room, pulled the correspondence folder—it was labeled 29.4, I still recall—and started reading it right there in the stacks.

The paper was browned with age and wrinkled at the edges. Annemarie’s handwriting filled the page, which I read through the clear Mylar sleeves: “Carson, child, my beloved, you know that, leaving the day after tomorrow, feeling half-afraid and proud, leaving behind me all I care for, once again, and a wave of love—”

I looked up at the rows of manuscript boxes that surrounded me, mind humming, face flushed. “Love”—did that mean what I thought it did? Instinctively, I listened for anyone who might be coming. Hearing only the ticktick of the sliding electric shelves, I read on. To Carson, Annemarie recalled “talking as we did, you and I, at that lunch time, you remember, at the corner near the Bedford Hotel, with milk and bread and butter, ages ago.”

Annemarie’s language in her letters to Carson was intimate, suggestive, or at least I read it that way. You remember. I had received letters like these. I had written letters like these to women I’d loved. Letters with words like darling and baby. Another thing I recognized: The intimacy of Annemarie’s tone contained a hint of plausible deniability, as though the “wave of love” she referred to might not have been about Carson at all.

It was very little to go on, and yet I felt utter certainty: Carson McCullers had loved women. Or at least this woman had loved her. I wanted to know everything about them both. I brought the folder upstairs, hurried to my 3 o’clock reference desk shift, and started Googling. Annemarie, I discovered, was a Swiss writer, photographer, silk heiress, and known lady-killer who spent time in New York in the late 1930s and early ’40s, but there wasn’t much else.

Folder 29.4 held eight letters from Annemarie to Carson, but none of Carson’s replies. One had the heading “On the Congo River, Sept. 1941.” Annemarie’s handwriting was so small and insistent that the missives read long, though often they covered only the front and back of a single sheet. Like mine, they were overwrought, wrung with feeling and a need to declare it in writing. Other than my own, I had never read love letters between women before.

I found the letters at the tail end of the slow-burning catastrophe of my 20s: never quite breaking up with my first love—a woman I’d met our freshman year of college—after six closeted years together.

I didn’t know whether I wanted to date women, but on the heels of emotional and sexual manipulation by a male professor, the idea of dating men seemed pretty dismal. Like most 25-year-olds, I couldn’t figure out what came next.

What came next was Carson. I tried to tell a few people about the letters, but I couldn’t explain why they were so significant to me. “She dated a woman,” they’d say. “So?”

The years that followed were overtaken by my desire to understand the magnitude of Carson and Annemarie’s on-paper love. And to understand myself, too. I didn’t realize I was starting a book that would take me seven years to research and write. Within a week of finding the letters, without seeing any connection to the photos of Annemarie I’d been Googling, I would chop my hair short. Within a year, I would be calling myself a lesbian for the first time—albeit only privately, in my mind and to a few close friends. Having grown up Catholic in the Midwest, I struggled to claim my own sexuality. I was still trying it out, working to get the word out of my mouth.

Four years later, I would live in Carson’s childhood home for a month on a research fellowship, and soon after I would move to Santa Fe with my new love, Chelsea—we met as interns—abandoning my academic job search to finish a book about Carson. Retrospect redefines everything in its path, and I am as hesitant to ascribe fixed narrative meaning to my own life as any other. But I suppose we could call those letters a turning point.

Finding Carson McCullers' Secret Love Letters Helped Me Realize Who I Am. By Jenn Shapland.

Oprah Magazine, December  20, 2019. 






I came to Carson first through her love letters, and then through her clothes. As an intern at the Ransom Center, a vault of books and manuscripts, I was given a choice of second-year projects. Anything I wanted to work on, any collection that needed cataloging, any exhibition in the works could have been my focus. After a year of detouring to push my library cart down aisles of typewriters, eyeglasses, and most amazingly—clothes every time I was on the seventh floor, I knew that I wanted to work on the personal effects collections. I was assigned the clothing, objects, and miscellaneous housewares of four writers: Gertrude Stein, Alice B. Toklas, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, and Carson McCullers. Before this project, I hadn’t thought all that much about an author’s clothes. But in my hours with random assortments of garments—socks, suits, coats, hats, and vests—I became more convinced of their potential for communing with lives past.

Since I’d unearthed Annemarie’s letters and realized how insignificantly she came off in Carson’s public story, I began to cling to Carson’s mentions of places and objects for clues to who she was. Her clothes, her knickknacks, offered something I came to see as more truthful: the honesty of objects. Description can only expose so much of the self or contain so much of a memory or an experience. Photos and objects offer alternative access points to Carson’s history of identity formation and love. When I first reached for these objects, trying to understand Carson’s story, I was reaching for an embodied history, a past I could touch.

Carson’s focus on clothes in her therapy sessions and in Illumination reveals their importance to her, which I intuited while I catalogued them. Clothes gave her a way to express an identity that was fluid, a way to change who she was to the world each day. In April 1958, Carson laments to Mary her long lost status as an “it girl,” wistful for her former stylishness. In her more elegant days, she wore what she called costumes made by a friend, Joyce Davis, and her girlfriends were the most attractive around. At bars like the Blue Angel, the 21 Club, and Alice’s Candle, they gallivanted in box-pleated skirts and knee-high socks and peacoats. Named for the 1930 Marlene Dietrich film, the Blue Angel was a cabaret in Manhattan where Barbra Streisand would later perform. Carson mentions someone by the name of Crawford, but the first name is blank. Joan? I marvel. In her years in New York, when she lived on and off at February House, Carson spent her time with queer writers and tastemakers in bars and cabarets all over town. This joyful memory is undercut by “Annamarie and her agony, you know, and Gypsy, and Annette.” The drama of her twenties.

When I catalogued Carson’s clothes, I took them off the hangers or out of their boxes and laid them out on a piece of muslin on a large table. And then, for longer than I’d ever done with my own clothes, I studied them. I looked and looked: for tags and labels, any kind of brand or designer identification, fabric contents. I looked at their linings, scanned them inch by inch for tears, stains, and signs of wear—each a communication from its wearer in a previous life. I measured and photographed each piece from several angles, never very satisfied with my ability to recreate the life I saw and felt in the clothes. If librarians and archivists are eminently mockable for their obsession with the smell of books, I can profess that clothes are much more fragrant than paper.

Traces of perfumes, soaps, mothballs, body odors. From the clothes I want to say I knew what Carson smelled like, but how could I ever describe it in words? I ran my gloved hands over the rich tweed skirtsuit in teal that looks like something she’d wear to meetings in New York with her publishers. Her long, pale lime-green wool A-line coat appears to be lined in emerald silk, but it is more likely polyester. She has several elaborately embroidered jackets and vests, things worn to theater and film premieres. Certainly Carson was never one for gowns. One item seems especially out of place, out of character: a gold lamé jacket with magenta lining that still has the Saks price tags on it, from all those years ago. It is the only item in the collection that looks unworn. Perhaps it was a gift.

The clothes in Carson’s collection consist mostly of long coats, vests, and nightgowns, which, when I first encountered them, I didn’t understand at all. Why would someone donate four cotton nightgowns to an archive? In a number of photographs, she wears the long red wool coat with embroidered gold trim, a garment with which I am deeply familiar. She called it her Russian coat, I think because it made her feel somehow “Russian,” which could mean, knowing Carson’s lifelong fascination with snowy climates, a person from a cold place. But it could just as easily suggest a person with a deep understanding of Anna Karenina. Carson refers frequently to Russian writers in her letters. I photographed the red coat from a ladder, I described it in metadata, I housed it in tissue and a box all its own. Like the clothes of our loved ones do, the coat began to resemble Carson, to signify a part of her. Years into this tunnel of research, I’ve solved the mystery of the collection of nightgowns and coats: she was a sick person. She wore, predominately, nightgowns, and often put a beautiful coat over them in photos. An interview with Rex Reed from 1967 describes how “she greets her guests in long white nightgowns and tennis shoes.”

Carson revisits memories of her appearance, her elegance, in Illumination. Her friend in the last decade of her life, a French woman named Marielle Bancou, whom Carson met on the bus from Nyack to New York, designed and made all of her “nightgowns and dressing robes,” allowing her to be bedridden in style. If these were the nightgowns I catalogued, they are lightweight cotton in pale yellow, blue, and white, with simple lace collars, occasionally with ruffled sleeves. Some short sleeved, some long sleeved, one sleeveless. They have a childlike quality, something I may have worn to sleep in the summer when I was little. She writes about a gift she received from Dawn Langley Simmons, a close friend whom she met while visiting Edwin and John. Simmons gave Carson “one of her robes, a beautiful Japanese garment which I wear often. I love Japanese and Chinese robes and wear them on all state occasions. I have one, given to me by my cousin Jordan Massee, which is 2,000 years old. It was worn in the old days on protocol visits to the dowager empress, and handed down from one generation to the next.”

The age of this robe is the only lie I feel certain of in her autobiography. Having recently catalogued clothing only a few decades old, I’m highly skeptical that any fabric would remain intact that long unless elaborate preservation techniques were employed.

In Columbus, in the office of the Stark Avenue house, a silk kimono hung on a dressmaker’s dummy under a sheet of plastic, and the director told me that this was the kimono she alleged to be 2000 years old. The first thing I did after I was left alone in the house was remove this plastic. It is a dark, rosy pink, almost purple, embroidered all over with blue, pink, and green flowers and leaves. The wide beaded, embroidered lapel circles the collar, crosses, and closes at the side of the neck. I can see how wearing the garment on state occasions would make me feel distinguished, vaguely ancient. I had brought my sewing machine with me to Columbus, with coincidental plans to make a kimono, and this served as perfect inspiration. After uncovering the kimono, I opened the heavy, yellowing floral curtains, sat down at the massive desk, and looked across the room at the garment, at my own face in the mirror hanging beside it.

A year prior, surrounded, for the first time, by artists and writers at a residency in Vermont, I took to wearing a long black silk robe with magenta polka dots over my clothes every day. I had found it at a thrift store in Burlington. It was April 2015, and I’d driven from full Texas summer blue through midatlantic spring fog to a frozen, still snowing Vermont sky. The river outside my studio window slowly thawed over the course of the month, and by the end what had been solid ice was audibly rushing with snowmelt. In my first attempt to occupy the position of “writer” in public for any extended period of time, I felt the need to don what I deemed full writer drag: my robe, my knit hat, and my duck boots preceding any version of me, any writing at all, as I swept into and out of the dining room each day.

Toward the end of my stay in Vermont I sat in my robe at the desk in my studio surrounded by photos of McCullers’s clothes that I had catalogued and all the photos of Annemarie I’d printed, a serial killer’s lair. I pulled up the first draft of this book, which consisted of questions for the objects I’d catalogued, on my laptop so those who wanted to could read it on their tour around the writers’ studios. I don’t imagine anyone did. Writers’ studios tend to be much less exciting than artists’: no paint or clay, no half-assembled sculptures midroom, just a hard drive, maybe a notebook. A closed process. But this was my first studio, my first designated, if temporary, writing space, and I had papered the walls with lines I had written, one-sentence essays in india ink on paper.

I was sipping a plastic cup of red wine (having consumed half my bottle of bourbon the first night, at the bonfire, pouring it into a camping mug and continuing to drink because that’s what I assumed a writer was supposed to do at a bonfire—What Would Carson Do?—and the next day, my first day to work, I was so ill I did nothing but sit in my studio’s armchair in the fetal position, periodically spilling down the hall to throw up in the bathroom beside some poor poet’s studio. I still don’t know how those alcoholic writers do it). One of the older men in residence, a photographer with shoulder-length gray hair, came by my studio while I sat at my desk. He said he wanted to take my picture. He said it was for his wife, so she could see what I was wearing, I think to make it less weird that he was a man alone in a room with me taking my picture. I let him. It is one of those pictures of a writer at her desk, ones we see when Google Images searching for any writer, but I have never seen mine.

 The desk in the Stark Avenue house’s office was not Carson’s, and in fact I find it odd that I have never seen mention of her desk. I think this one might have been Rita’s at some point. Early on, Carson had several author photos taken sitting at—more often sitting on—a desk, usually out on the porch. Each piece of furniture that peoples the house in Columbus tells a story of its own: the white slipcovered couch where she wrote Clock Without Hands, her beloved blue armchair, the organ. When I picture Carson writing, I picture her reclined, looking out a window.

From My Autobiography of Carson McCullers by Jenn Shapland.

Cataloguing Carson McCullers’ Clothes: Long Coats, Vests, and Gender Fluidity. By Jenn Shapland. LitHub,  February 18, 2020.






Jenn Shapland is the author of My Autobiography of Carson McCullers (Tin House Books), a Winter Spring 2020 Indies Introduce adult debut and a February 2020 Indie Next List pick.


“Shapland’s book intertwines her experience of archiving Carson McCullers’ personal effects with a fresh understanding of McCullers’ life as a lesbian through the deep examination of therapy transcripts, love letters, and a residency in McCullers’ childhood home filled with her everyday household objects,” said Mimi Hannan of La Playa Books in San Diego, California, who served on the bookseller panel that selected Shapland’s debut for the Indies Introduce program.

Hannan continued, “Shapland’s work closes the gap between researcher and subject and lays bare the bias inherent in any biography. The book’s vignettes alternate between McCullers’ life and Shapland’s, creating the sensation of peeking in the window at moments in both women’s lives and coming away with a deeper knowledge of McCullers through her effect on Shapland.”

Shapland’s nonfiction has been published in O, the Oprah Magazine; Tin House; Outside ​online; The Lifted Brow; Electric Literature; and elsewhere. Her essay “Finders, Keepers” won a 2017 Pushcart Prize, and she was awarded the 2019 Rabkin Foundation Award for art journalism for “Thirteen Ways of Moving to the Desert” and “Field Report: El Paso + Juárez.” She has a PhD in English from the University of Texas at Austin and lives in New Mexico.

Here, Hannan asks Shapland about her debut.

Mimi Hannan: I’m neither queer nor have I read any Carson McCullers, but I absolutely loved this book. Bringing your story into the biography, you made history feel personal. What books provided inspiration to you for the structure or genre of your book?

Jenn Shapland: Biographies make me crazy, because they hold so many amazing true stories, but they can be so daunting. They’re almost always strictly chronological, and as a nonfiction writer, chronological order rarely feels real or alive to me. But I’m invested in the power of life writing, and I knew I wanted to write about Carson’s life. I just had to do it my own way. A bunch of writers working in hybrid genres and short-form sections provided a way to think about structuring the book. Maggie Nelson’s The Red Parts combines memoir and true crime, but also offers a biography of Nelson’s Aunt Jane Mixer in the process of reckoning with her death. In both Citizen and Don’t Let Me Be Lonely, Claudia Rankine allows small encounters and interactions in her daily life to fuel a larger argument about marginalization and discrimination of black women, and I definitely drew from her work, using similar material to make a case for lesbian invisibility. I’ve loved Lydia Davis’ short stories for a long time, and her most recent book, Can’t and Won’t, used recountings and translations of other people’s stories (from Flaubert’s anecdotes to her own dreams) as the material for her fiction. I also admire the way her titles contribute so much to each story, and had her in the back of my mind when titling chapters in My Autobiography.

MH: There have been other biographies of Carson McCullers written, but yours is the first to deeply examine her life as a lesbian. Are there other authors writing about history from an #OwnVoices perspective whom you admire?

JS: I definitely long for more of this work, and I’m constantly seeking it out (and frequently disappointed when books fail to go there). Usually, it seems that biographies and histories about queer people have been written by people who aren’t queer and who aren’t invested in queer history. Many of the erasures and elisions I discovered in published narratives of Carson’s life had all of the facts in hand, but failed to make connections that, to me, were obvious. Another way to put this: Queer readers have known that Carson’s life and work were queer forever, but that knowledge never made it into the public record. Meanwhile, marriages and divorces became the primary lenses for viewing a person’s romantic life and sexual identity. Anything that wasn’t a legally certified relationship, no matter how clear it might be in letters and interviews, doesn’t make it into the official narrative. Pip Gordon’s new book Gay Faulkner is a great approach to understanding a writer’s life and work in terms of their relationship with queer people and ideas.

MH: At what point did you think you had the makings of a book? Who were some of the instrumental forces in helping you shape the book?

JS: I began writing the book in earnest during a writing residency at Vermont Studio Center while I was still in graduate school working on an unrelated project. Being around other writers and artists who were serious about their work changed everything for me, and the friendships I formed there, particularly with artist Katie Loughmiller and poet Anis Mojgani, were my lifelines in the early stages of writing. I had similar experiences at the Tin House Writers Workshop, which showed me that even without an MFA or a foot in the publishing world it’s possible to build a life around writing. My time at Yaddo actually wound up in the book, because inhabiting the place where McCullers wrote several of her novels had a major impact on my writing and research. Later on in the process, my agent, Bill Clegg, and the book’s first editor, Emma Komlos-Hrobsky, were generous, critical readers and I credit them with believing in a fairly spare manuscript and encouraging it to become fully fleshed book.

MH: If you could imagine interacting with Carson, what would that setting look like? What would you want to take away from the experience?

JS: I picture her when she’s older, sitting in her favorite blue chair or on the porch. I would ask her what she’s reading and I’d ask some burning questions about her contemporaries, which would lead to some fabulous queer gossip (for example: what is up with Patricia Highsmith?). I hope that we would laugh a lot and feel a kind of kinship. But I’ve spent enough time thinking about how we interact with people we don’t know to realize that’s all my wishful projection.

MH: Since this interview is for an audience of booksellers and you spent some time as a bookseller while you were writing and contemplating this book, I would be remiss if I didn’t ask you a bookstore-related question! How did your bookselling experience impact your book?

JS: Working at BookPeople in Austin from 2009–2016 was the best job, because I got to be surrounded by books and passionate readers and I had time to think. Spending a lot of time in a bookstore makes it clear what subjects have gotten a lot of attention, and what gaps remain to be filled, what connections have yet to be made. The memoir section was right next to the biography section at BookPeople, so perhaps my desire to bring those two genres together in my own book was inspired while shelving.


An Indies Introduce Q&A With Author Jenn Shapland. By Mimi Hannan.   American Booksellers Association, January 28, 2020. 








“I have read enough biographies,” Jenn Shapland writes early in her new book, “to know, in no uncertain terms, that they are built of artifice and lies. I am not a fiction writer, and this is not a biography.”

I take her point that biography is a subjective enterprise, though I wonder about the hyperbole. The book’s title—My Autobiography of Carson McCullers—has already told us that this is actually a memoir, with the writer using McCullers’s life to comprehend her own. It’s a familiar device—like Helen Macdonald’s hawk or Julie Powell’s Julia Child. Near the book’s end, Shapland reminds us, “Biography and its presumptions have bothered me for some time.” This is so insistent that it prompts the question: Does Shapland really intend to litigate the problems inherent in biography as literary pursuit, or is she excusing the endeavor of her own book?

As a graduate student, Shapland was an intern at the Harry Ransom Center, the University of Texas repository that buys up the ephemera of seemingly every writer: Gabriel García Márquez, Don DeLillo, Rachel Cusk. An academic’s request introduced Shapland to the correspondence between a woman named Annemarie Clarac-Schwarzenbach and Carson McCullers, perhaps most famous for her 1940 novel The Heart Is a Lonely Hunter, surely one of American literature’s most remarkable debuts. Shapland’s interest is piqued:

     ‘Annemarie’s language in her letters to Carson is intimate, suggestive, or I read it that way. You remember. I had received letters like these. I had written letters like these to the women I’d loved. It was very little to go on, and yet I felt an utter certainty: Carson McCullers had loved women.’

This suggestion that a writer firmly within the American canon—albeit one whom she’d not read—might have loved women strikes a nerve. “I am as hesitant to ascribe steady narrative meaning to my own life as to any other’s,” Shapland writes. “But I suppose we could call those letters a turning point.” She’s moved to catalog the writer’s effects, which have been waiting for a scholar’s attention for years; she cuts her hair short and embraces the label lesbian; she abandons her hunt for an academic job to write the book we’re reading. Whatever transpired between Annemarie and Carson might be open to a biographer’s interpretation; what happens between Jenn and Carson seems clearly like love.

If McCullers provided salvation, helping Shapland emerge once and for all from the closet, now the younger writer has an opportunity to return the favor. But she is wary. She cites this, from Josyane Savigneau’s 2001 McCullers biography: “The labels lesbian and bisexual ... have also been used by partisans of homosexuality—both male and female—who would appropriate the writer for their cause.” Shapland writes, “Her description positions me as a ‘partisan of homosexuality’ seeking to ‘appropriate’ Carson’s story for my ‘cause.’ And perhaps I am.”

This circumspection is unnecessary and dulls the work’s effect. Authorial hesitation is fine—probably commendable!—but its recurrence feels less like an intellectual complication and more like nervous tic. To be queer—different in whatever fashion you are—is superb preparation for the task of criticism. You meet Harriet the Spy with that frisson of recognition. You read A Separate Peace waiting for the teen protagonists to kiss (fraternal love, give me a break). This is a survival strategy (You are not alone in the world) and we learn to deploy it on the page and in reality.

Shapland both is and is not looking for evidence. She notes the case of Eleanor Roosevelt, whose relationship with Lorena Hickok was posthumously revised into friendship. Queerness, like fog, dissipates over time: “If it can’t be proved with direct evidence of sexual intimacy, it never happened. And if you’re looking for evidence, it won’t ever be published.” In transcripts of McCullers’s therapy sessions (recorded as raw material for an autobiography), she seems to find it. Copyright constraints prohibit her from quoting most of what she locates, but of course it’s immaterial. Queerness was in McCullers’s dress, her work, her social circle, her life. To pretend otherwise is to maintain that the sky is beige.

Shapland’s is a quest for the self. A snatch of McCullers’s childhood memory recalls her own. McCullers’s health troubles (she was partially paralyzed by a stroke at 31; she died at only 50) echo her own struggles with chronic illness. She sees the book as atonement: “… for my own closeted years, I am determined to shed light, to expose even those things that are difficult about a writer’s life. To track the rewritings, the omissions, the revisions.” This is so ambitious as to be impossible.
My Autobiography might have dwelt even longer than it does on the resonances between the lives of author and subject: Shapland cuts herself off, as though she’s using McCullers cheaply. But we all read selfishly. This text is more than mere fan letter, and if the author had allowed herself to go further, I wonder what she might have found?

Her understanding of archival practices and affection for McCullers make Shapland an informed critic. She might have probed deeper into why the Ransom Center holds McCullers’s coat as well as her correspondence. She stays as a guest at McCullers’s childhood home and could have spent more time on why such sites endure and whether they’re good stewards of an artist’s legacy. This book might have been broader, a more robust hybrid of memoir and criticism. I will say, though, that it made me return to The Heart is a Lonely Hunter; I sense that Shapland would consider that mission accomplished.

Finding Carson McCullers. By Rumaan Alam. The New Republic , February 21, 2020.





When I was 17,  my uncle handed me a copy of The Ballad of the Sad Café. I had never heard of Carson McCullers. I devoured the collection. Years later I thanked him for the introduction, and he chuckled and half-apologized. “Kind of bleak, for a teenager,” he said. What I would have responded, were I someone who is able to come up with good things to say on the spot, is: Being a teenager is already pretty bleak, so I might as well have some company.

Carson came to me, via said uncle, in my final years of high school, during my first dips into the melancholia that has lingered in my peripheries for 10-plus years. I grew up in rural New England; it was idyllic and I did love it, but I was constantly aware of its smallness, its limitations. I was seen, I’m absolutely certain, as “normal,” but inside I often felt despairing, lonely, impatient. Like so many of Carson’s characters, I was desperate for my life — my real life — to start.

Jenn Shapland, whose My Autobiography of Carson McCullers is out today from Tin House, was in her mid-20s when Carson came to her. (Shapland calls her Carson, so I’m going to call her Carson, too.) She was in the archives of UT’s Ransom Center, where she worked for two years as she earned her PhD. A scholar requested the letters between Carson and Annemarie Schwarzenbach, and Shapland descended into the archives to retrieve them. What she found was a set of intimate correspondences, in which she immediately detected romance. “Other than my own, I had never read love letters between women before,” she writes. At the time, Shapland was grappling with her own sexuality, her ambitions, her identity. She, too, was hoping her life would start and questioning what that life should be.

This discovery set her on a years-long journey to unearth, retrace, understand, and even embody Carson’s life — particularly her life of love. The resulting book brilliantly interweaves Carson’s personal history with Shapland’s own. “To tell another person’s story,” Shapland explains, “a writer must make that person some version of herself, must find a way to inhabit her.” Shapland achieves this identity merger, to some extent. She lives in Carson’s childhood home in Columbus, Georgia, reads countless pages of transcripts from her therapy sessions, visits Yaddo, and examines her subject’s collection of coats and nightgowns, searching for clues, searching for answers, and in some ways, searching for herself. To see these pieces fit together, Shapland writes, “[Y]ou have to read like a queer person, like someone who knows what it’s like to be closeted, and who knows how to look for reflections of your own experience in even the most unlikely places.”

Carson’s relationship with Annemarie is relatively well known and frequently cited, as are her many friendships with other queer writers and artists, and her fiction’s atypical empathy toward homosexuality, blackness, and disability in the mid-20th century. Nonetheless, Carson is historically categorized as a straight woman (she was married twice, to the same man) who entertained “infatuations” and close friendships with other women. The question that propels Shapland’s book is not whether or not Carson was a lesbian; she’s not trying to prove, exactly. What she’s trying to do is see herself in history, show herself (and us) that Carson and other queer people have always lived, always loved, always made community for themselves.

One of the ways Shapland asserts her own existence, and the existence of a rich history of lesbians living and loving, is through the physical remnants of that history. Carson’s clothes, some of which were given to the Ransom Center, are crucial in this respect. Shapland measures and examines them in detail — more than she ever has with her own clothing. She describes a room in Carson’s house in Georgia which is lined with glass cases housing Carson’s old possessions: things like eyeglasses, a cigarette case, a wallet. They are mundane objects, but ones that prove Carson’s life, and thus make tangible the existence of a person whose identity has been glossed over by popular memory. “[I]f indeed there hardly is a lesbian history,” Shapland asks, “do I exist?”

At its core, Shapland’s book is about gaps — in stories, in language, in history, in ourselves — and how we attempt to fill them. Shapland casts aspersions on historians and critics who have called Carson a tomboy (“whatever that is […] I cannot imagine her displaying athletic ability, and she was by no means butch”), or her wardrobe as “mannish” (“how many men wear lapels that large, cuffs that long? What about all the embroidery, the beading? Though now I am gender policing”). The challenge, as she sees it, “is how little common language we have to communicate androgyny, ambiguity. We rely on binary terms […] to convey what is at heart both, or neither.” Shapland marvels at the historical rewriting of Carson’s life, in which she had “obsessions” with women, but of course, she was straight — because people are straight. Where there is no equivocal language to account for equivocal history, there is only lack.





Shapland detects queerness everywhere, but her findings are usually ignored, if not outright refuted. The director of the Carson McCullers Center in Columbus tells her “in no uncertain terms” that Carson and her therapist Dr. Mary Mercer were “never romantically involved.” At Yaddo, the artist residency in the Hudson Valley that Carson adored, and where she met another of her paramours, the residency director Elizabeth Ames, Shapland sees holes in the tour guide’s description of the benefactor family. She questions these relationships: Who was involved with whom? And to what extent? “Women? Men? […] Were they all enmeshed? None of these questions were answered on the tour, though I asked.” Apparently, queerness is not part of Yaddo’s self-mythologizing. In a section titled “Googling,” Shapland describes reading Natalie Goldberg’s Writing Down the Bones while at Yaddo: “[W]ithin a minute I was typing ‘Natalie Goldberg lesbian’ into the search bar. I cannot tell you the number of times I have typed this search with different women’s names.” What she finds, perhaps unsurprisingly, and in a fitting metaphor for her entire project, is ambiguity.

Ambivalence is reflected and refracted in the book’s very structure. My Autobiography of Carson McCullers is made up of vignettes, some only a sentence long and some that span deeply researched pages. These pieces are grouped and sorted by topic and time, in keeping with Shapland’s archivist training, but there is also a certain amount of slipperiness to them, a constant regenerating and layering effect that renders the categories somewhat irrelevant. Shapland resists classification and prescription at every turn, opting for gray over black-and-white whenever possible. Her role, then, is less as biographer than as translator, rereading and queering Carson’s life for an audience that has only had access to a fraction of the story.

Of course, for Carson and her contemporaries, it was expected that queer “behaviors” be shrouded in normativity. As Freudian psychology gained popularity, so too did the idea that long-term homosexual behavior — particularly when undisguised by heterosexual partnership — was a pathology. Carson adhered to these strictures, marrying Reeves McCullers for convenience while engaging in intense affairs with women, residing in the famed February House in Brooklyn, and living apart from Reeves for essentially their entire marriage. It bears mentioning that Carson was accused of other pathologies, as well — she was chronically ill, and doctors often explained away her sicknesses as “psychological episodes.” In reality, she suffered a series of strokes, starting at the age of 23, incurred partly due to a misdiagnosed bout of rheumatic fever in her teens. Shapland, too, has a chronic illness that often leaves her exhausted, diagnosed in her early 20s. Invisible illnesses put the sick in the horrible position of constantly having to explain themselves, prove themselves, or else pretend. “The psychologizing of illness complicates the relationship between self and body,” Shapland writes. “If any malady can be connected to a patient’s psychology it follows that […] they could cure themselves.” Carson and Shapland are only two on an infinitely long list of women who were made to feel crazy, instead of simply sick.

Shapland’s book was catalyzed in part by Carson’s relationship with therapy and with her therapist, Dr. Mary Mercer. Carson began seeing Mary when she was 41 and convinced Mary to allow the sessions to be recorded and transcribed. Mary kept them private until her death in 2012, and in 2014 they were released. “[B]oth Mary and Carson describe these transcripts as an attempt at writing her autobiography,” Shapland explains. There is a lot of talk about writers in therapy, about writing as therapy, but therapy as writing? It’s an appealing concept, and a convenient one for a writer who struggles with introspection. Carson’s characters are, perhaps, more developed than Carson herself: “[I]t’s clear enough that she, a writer renowned for her psychological insight and emotional acuity on the page, is still at a loss as to how to articulate who she is.” This technique may very well have been a way for Carson to remove herself from her own mind, to analyze — or create — herself the way she would one of her characters. Shapland fills some of the holes left by Carson’s therapeutic testimony, chiming in to offer analysis where Carson couldn’t, or wouldn’t.

Shapland herself, on the other hand, is the archetypal therapy patient. Her experiences in counseling are interspersed throughout the book, mirroring and offsetting Carson’s sessions with Mary. Shapland is contemplative and anxious, plagued by impostor syndrome. At every turn, she is astonished when doors are opened, offers extended. All success feels like a fluke. She worries, even, that the very essence of her project is corrupt: “I became afraid that in the very process of trying to know her, I would somehow change her.”

At the same time, Shapland feels protective of her singular relationship with Carson, defensive when other people claim to “love” her. Through her rewriting of Carson’s biography, a kind of ownership emerges: Oh, you love her, do you? Are you writing a book about her? Not wanting to be one of these intrusive, presumptuous people, I mentioned my anxiety about writing this review to my own therapist: Am I attempting to take Carson away from Shapland? Am I appropriating her? If one day I happen to meet Shapland, will I be able to resist telling her I reviewed her book, stole a little piece of Carson’s legacy, inserted myself into the story? (The outcome of this debate is self-evident.)




My own experiences with therapy started in high school, around the time I first read Carson’s work. The routine remains an essential part of my emotional well-being. In retrospect, it’s an interesting time to have begun such a process: I was engaging in identity-making and personal storytelling at the precipice of my adulthood. I hadn’t thought of it this way until I read Shapland’s astute assessment that “[t]herapy has a lot in common with memoir: It’s telling your story.” Successful counseling, Shapland asserts, is just narrative-making through trial and error. At one point, she describes a session that helped her “shape a new narrative, one that wasn’t so strict and unforgiving.” A good therapist is like a good editor: she knows all your previous work, all your tricks, and never lets you get away with lazy storytelling.

When I read The Heart Is a Lonely Hunter, the book for which Carson is probably most famous, the man I was dating sneered over my shoulder, “Isn’t that a YA novel?” Carson is not, for Library of Congress cataloging purposes, a young adult author. But here is yet another place where official categories mean very little. Her books do speak to a certain type of anguished, searching youth that resonated with me when I was 17, and still does. Many of her characters (like my favorite one, Frankie, the 12-year-old protagonist in The Member of the Wedding who yearns to be part of something bigger and fixates on her brother’s wedding) are struggling through adolescence, feeling like outsiders for reasons that are invisible to everyone else.

That sense of longing and displacement clearly resonates with Shapland and is in part to thank for the existence of this book. In one of the very first sections, Shapland describes the “slow burning catastrophe of [her] twenties,” in which she realizes she’s halfway down the wrong path (academia) and isn’t sure where to turn. “I could tell I wasn’t cut out to be an archivist. I didn’t have the patience, and I spent too much time trying to solve mysteries of my own creation,” she writes, after listing the other occupations she’s certain she wouldn’t enjoy or be good at. Luckily for us, she turns to Carson, and spends 200-plus pages proving herself wrong about the archivist bit. She is a diligent, perceptive, and heartful researcher. Following along with Shapland-as-detective is a delight, and the mystery she sets out to solve is one of those wicked unsolvables: how do we account for the apertures in language, history, and identity? Shapland describes “the only story [Carson] ever wrote: a lonely misfit wrestles with her hidden self, unable to articulate her own longings.” It seems Shapland, too, has written that story.


 Rewriting McCullers. By Ellie Duke. Los Angeles Review of Books , February 4, 2020







The moment I found the archived letter that explicitly referred to Octavia Butler as a lesbian, I immediately texted all the people in my contact list who might give a damn. Sure, several of her obituaries used the word as if it were fact, but that caused a bit of an uproar amongst the faithful crew who maintained that she only ever claimed the identity of hermit. “We have proof!” I typed and typed again. Of course, this was no certain proof—these weren’t Butler’s archival materials or even the materials of someone who knew her all that well. I didn’t care. The casual and confident use of the word “lesbian” by one of her contemporaries was enough for me.

Our (etymological) creation myth is well-known: a charismatic poet, an island of women, and several scraps of papyrus containing poetic fragments of their love. This piecemeal proof has inspired gaggles of scholars throughout the ages to spend ample page space developing what’s become known as The Sappho Question. “Was she? Wasn’t she? Would she have used the word?” It’s evident Sappho wrote poems celebrating erotic love for women, yet somehow, such willful disbelief persists. At the very least, let us name our namesake.

Now here I am, typing “was Octavia Butler a lesbian” into Google. (As far as I can tell, the jury’s out.) This isn’t the first time I’ve caught myself asking my own version of The Question. “Was Emily Dickinson/Sylvia Plath/Julia Child a lesbian.” Like Jenn Shapland, the most recent addition to my library of lesbian writers, “I cannot tell you the number of times I’ve typed this search with different women’s names.” She understands the compulsion. She won’t judge me. Besides, we’re not attempting to disprove speculation in some act of lesbian erasure masked as responsible scholarship. We’re asking The Question to give our speculation legs.

Yes, locating lesbians is about naming people as our kin, but it’s also about collecting a body of literature that speaks to our experiences of desire, identity, and language. We seek literature we can love that also loves us back. Literature that feels lesbian, even when an explicitly lesbian character isn’t present. Just as Bertha Harris claimed Djuna Barnes, so Shapland claims the famously ambiguous southern novelist in My Autobiography of Carson McCullers. Or does she? She might refer to Carson McCullers as a lesbian, but “to claim” implies ownership. This is something else.

Though I’d never heard of Carson McCullers’ work until graduate school at a southern institution, she was wildly popular during her lifetime. McCullers’ debut novel, The Heart is a Lonely Hunter (1940), became an immediate bestseller, and her second novel, Reflections in a Gold Eye (1941), was adapted into a film starring Marlon Brando as a closeted US Army officer and Elizabeth Taylor as his wife. She was awarded two Guggenheim Fellowships and was allowed to come and go from Yaddo pretty much as she pleased. Richard Wright deemed her the first white southern writer to handle black characters with as much ease as those of her own race and Tennessee Williams considered her the greatest writer of her generation. McCullers’ work consistently explores queer desires, yet the fact that she married a man, divorced him, and then married and divorced him again seemed to some biographers to be a case against lesbianism. Still, her intense relationships with women are well-documented, and upon the release of McCullers’ therapy session transcripts in 2013 (transcribed because McCullers hoped to use them as the basis of her autobiography), the world gained even more documentation.

In No Archive Will Restore You, Julietta Singh describes two different ways of thinking about “the emergence of desire,” both in terms of archival research and more generally: it bursts forth from a single moment that drastically alters the trajectory of your life, or it gradually accumulates through a repetition of behaviors and longings. “While I know that my desire for [what the archive might have to offer] is in reality a long accrual,” she writes, “I imagine it as this single solitary moment.”

In the study of lesbian history, the desire for proof is generally one the researcher doesn’t expect or even want to have satisfied. Queer research can feel like a secret club, where evidence is stored only within the blood that rushes from our bellies to our cheeks and is exchanged via intuition and rumor. When Shapland finds her proof, several years into researching McCullers, she’s overwhelmed by the verification of that which she’d known all along. Her girlfriend doesn’t share in her sense of shock. “‘Isn’t this what you were looking for?’” she asks. “‘Well,’” responds Shapland, “‘I didn’t think I’d actually find it.’”

I’m not ruining anything—this moment of discovery happens fairly early in the book. Which is to say, proof might be relevant, but it’s not the point. Often, the act of writing a biography is one on hand an attempt to uncover some previously unseen truth about a person, and on the other an effort to establish narrative or analytical meaning to the messiness of life. For Shapland, it’s more about finding a way to accept the mess in all its absences and utterances and to be honest with herself and her readers about what it is she wants from the archive. Ultimately, Shapland’s book aims to behold a woman she’ll never meet and to love her without laying claim.




McCullers died before she finished her autobiography, released posthumously in its very incomplete form as Illumination and Night Glare (2002). There is something profoundly tender in the way Shapland treats the series of incompletions and irresolutions she traces across the author’s life. Though McCullers ultimately decided her therapy transcripts were worthless, Shapland sees a book in their starts and stops, erasures, lost pages, and unprovable suggestions.

While it’s unclear whether McCullers ever had sex with any of the women she longed for—which for way too many people is the only acceptable “proof” of lesbianism—Shapland leaves open the very real possibility without needing it to be fact. What she sees in Carson, as she calls her, is “a familiarly protracted becoming” that she can only render imperfectly: “I wonder, constantly, what I might be omitting, revising, censoring. What I am unable to see or let be seen. About Carson, and about myself.” This kind of love acknowledges the fundamental separation between lover and beloved while also understanding that through our most deeply-held desires, “we are shards of others.”

The act of piecing ourselves together through each other shows up again and again in lesbian literature. Sure, it can fringe on enmeshment when done possessively and without regard for one’s own motivations, and that’s a stereotype that makes for a handful of easy punchlines. But all jokes aside (cue joke about humorless lesbians), what so often gets overlooked is the great possibility in considering self-creation as a collaborative work of love in which we carry the bodies of others within our own. “Nothing about you has faded,” says Jeanette Winterson’s nameless narrator of Written on the Body. “You are still the colour of my blood. You are my blood. When I look in the mirror its not my own face I see. Your body is twice. Once you once me.” The woman that the narrator loves is dead, but not. The narrator is the woman that she loves, but not. When we continually re-make ourselves and each other through intimacy, we’re never done becoming.

The erotic, as Audre Lorde describes it, is “a measure between the beginnings of our sense of self and the chaos of our strongest feelings.” Lesbian literature seldom traffics in the rhetoric of the self-made hero; to live fully requires tapping into the space between who we think we are and what we feel, which so very often has to do with what or whom we desire. Lorde did not write a memoir, but instead a “biomythography” she titled Zami: A New Spelling of My Name, after a Carriacou word meaning “women who work together as friends and lovers.” To write of life as a myth might seem like a dishonest act of exaggeration or idealization, yet Lorde uses the idea of mythos to frame the narration of life as inextricable from the expansive web of stories that change us.When Shapland dedicates her book to “Your Carson,” she gives her work over to her readers so they too can behold McCullers, identify with her, and become themselves. She belongs to no one and everyone and will remain, like the rest of us, eternally and beautifully incomplete. So when I refer to Carson McCullers and Octavia Butler as lesbians, I do so out of existential necessity, but also, and especially, for the sake of love.



Googling Literary Lesbians: On Carson McCullers and the Erotics of Incompletion. By Sarah Heying. LitHub , February 4, 2020.


























30/06/2019

Annemarie Schwarzenbach : Ravaged Angel




The British designer Clare Waight Keller scored the biggest fashion triumph of 2018 five months ago when the Duchess of Sussex walked down the aisle of St George’s Chapel in a boat-necked Givenchy wedding dress. No Paris catwalk show, even one that brings city traffic to a standstill on a Sunday evening and scores the starriest front row of the week, could hope to compete.
Waight Keller could very easily have revelled in royal wedding afterglow. After all, any boat-necked Givenchy dress on a sales rail would be a home banker right now. Instead, she used her evening at Paris fashion week to show that her vision and ambition reached far beyond one beautiful wedding dress.

The first twelve models – nine women, three men – on a catwalk weaving through the marbled halls of the Palais de Justice all had almost identical haircuts, a neat ear-grazing schoolboy trim. “The casting was paramount,” said Waight Keller after the show. “I wanted the women and men to be indefinable. Something about that felt relevant – and appealing, actually.” Royal wedding or no royal wedding, Waight Keller is not about to be pigeonholed into fairytale frocks. After all, Audrey Hepburn – muse of Hubert de Givenchy, whose Funny Face wedding dress was a reference for that of the duchess – was rocking a gamine pixie crop back in 1954.

This season’s muse was not Meghan but Annemarie Schwarzenbach, a Swiss writer and photographer who became a Berlin celebrity during the Weimar republic. “I was researching silhouettes,” said Waight Keller after the show, “and I came across this spectacular looking woman, whose mother had never insisted on her dressing like a girl, and who as an adult dressed sometimes as a man and sometimes as a woman but always in a modest, elegant way.”

The designer was wearing an elegant short-sleeved navy blouse tucked into high-waisted black trousers, firmly belted, with cone-heeled court shoes. It was a quiet take on the look amped up on the catwalk. Those high-waisted trousers were worn with silk blouses, cropped trenchcoats or abbreviated biker jackets. Shimmering silver evening capes brought an otherworldly glory to matt black crepe tailored separates or loose, dark silk gowns.

Waight Keller’s show notes were opaque and telegram-brief. “Silver solidifies”, she wrote, underscoring the purposeful, hard-edged mood that saw models marching past at a frantic pace that deliberately jettisoned all memories of a glide down the isle. Not content with having sparked a trend for feminine bateau necklines earlier this year, this show suggested Waight Keller might be about to make the fashion world go doe-eyed for sharp tailoring, metallic and monochrome. The latest fairytale frock? it’s a tuxedo.

Clare Waight Keller's Givenchy show in Paris shimmers sharply in a tuxedo. By Jess Cartner-Morley. The Guardian, September 30, 2018.








When American novelist Carson McCullers met Swiss author and photographer Annemarie Schwarzenbach in the summer of 1940, she fell in love – instantly and hard. “She had a face that I knew would haunt me for the rest of my life,” she said. McCullers wasn’t the only one to become enraptured with Schwarzenbach: German novelist Thomas Mann called her a “ravaged angel”; another writer, Roger Martin du Gard, said she had “the face of an inconsolable angel”; while German photographer Marianne Breslauer, who took numerous photos of Schwarzenbach, likened her to “the Archangel Gabriel standing before Heaven”.

But with the rediscovery in the late 1980s of Schwarzenbach’s body of work – a rich catalogue of journalism and photographs documenting her adventurous farflung travels – she gained new interest for more than just her angelic beauty; she was recognised as a female pioneer and a gay icon. In 2001, there was even a feature film, The Journey to Kafiristan, tracing her 4,000-mile drive from Geneva to Kabul in a Ford Deluxe with ethnologist Ella Maillart (‘How far would you go for true love?’ read the tagline).

Born in Zurich on 23rd May 1908, into a wealthy family, Schwarzenbach was always a nonconformist. Her bisexual mother Renée, the daughter of a Swiss general and descendant of the Bismarck family, dressed little Annemarie in boys’ clothes from an early age. She wore men’s clothes for the rest of her life, and was often mistaken for a man, favouring tailored suits, fitted sweaters and collared shirts – a wardrobe that both reflected her conservative background and the bohemian lifestyle she later pursued. She had a taste for haute couture too; while in the throes of a passionate affair with the daughter of the ambassador of Turkey to Persia, she would steal and wear her lover’s gowns.

This year, Schwarzenbach’s incredible style informed Givenchy’s Spring/Summer 2019 collection. The house’s artistic director, Clare Waight Keller, directly referenced images of the “hauntingly handsome writer”, presenting tuxedo jackets, leather motorcycle jackets tucked into army trousers, and elegant gowns that reflected the bias-cut 1930s fashion – and perhaps those stolen frocks. “I was researching silhouettes, and came across this spectacular looking woman, Annemarie Schwarzenbach, who dressed sometimes as a man and sometimes as a woman but always in a modest, elegant way,” explains Waight Keller. “It spoke to me, as it aligns perfectly with what we’re doing at Givenchy. I find the idea of not being defined by a gender in the way you express yourself through clothes extremely modern. Her sense of freedom in the way she would present herself as a different character from one day to the next is highly inspiring. I also love the message about acceptance and tolerance her story gives: she was at peace with her androgyny, and so many years later, it still inspires people like me to keep on colliding codes.”

Schwarzenbach’s legacy goes beyond fashion. A talented writer, she published her first book in 1931 when she was just 23 and, after a brief stint in Berlin where she enjoyed the last hurrah of the Weimar Republic (according to her friend Ruth Landshoff, “she lived dangerously. She drank too much. She never went to sleep before dawn”), she embarked on a career as a photojournalist. Producing 365 articles and 50 photo-reports for major Swiss, German and American newspapers and magazines in the space of just nine years, she travelled to Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Palestine, Iraq and Persia, and later Afghanistan, the USA, the Baltic states and Russia, often unaccompanied.

Her personal life was no less frenetic. A committed anti-fascist, she helped her friend Klaus Mann, son of Thomas Mann, finance the literary review Die Sammlung, which published exiled German writers; and she used her diplomatic passport – a by-product of her marriage-of-convenience to the gay French ambassador to Persia, Claude Clarac – to rescue anti-fascists in Austria. But her political commitment resulted in unbearable tensions with her Nazi-sympathising family, culminating in 1934 with her first suicide attempt.

And then there was the matter of her morphine addiction. A user from her early 20s, Schwarzenbach spent much of her life struggling to kick the habit. In fact, that audacious car journey to Afghanistan in 1940 was another failed attempt to clean up; her co-traveller Maillart chronicled the difficult experience in the book All the Roads Are Open: The Afghan Journey. That same year, the Manns introduced Schwarzenbach to smitten novelist Carson McCullers. Seventy years later, Suzanne Vega wrote the song Lover, Beloved about McCullers’ unrequited passion: “Everyone wants you, everyone loves you, how can I possibly compete?”




The mounting stress of this doomed affair and the death of Schwarzenbach’s father led to a second suicide bid, this time in New York. She was promptly admitted to a psychiatric ward, diagnosed with schizophrenia and subjected to weeks of barbaric treatment. Schwarzenbach escaped, was hospitalised again and then forced out of the US, winding her way back to Switzerland via Portugal, the Belgian Congo and Morocco. Tragically, once home she suffered a serious head injury from a bicycle accident that resulted in more hospital and more morphine. Her mother Renée refused to allow visitors – even her estranged husband Claude was turned away. Two months later, Schwarzenbach passed away, aged 34.

In a final twisted act, Renée destroyed most of her daughter’s diaries and letters, believing they shamed the family. Thankfully, one of Schwarzenbach’s friends held on to a collection of photographs and writings, and in the process saved Annemarie Schwarzenbach from the mists of obscurity.

Clare Waight Keller on the Angelic Gay Icon That Inspired Givenchy S/S19. By  Ted Stansfield. Another Man  ,  May 1 , 2019.





Last month, at the SS19 womenswear shows, androgyny and ambiguity reigned. Across all four fashion capitals, the boundaries of gender continued to blur; from Gareth Pugh’s voguing ball, to Margiela’s first co-ed runway, Hedi Slimane’s gender-neutral suiting at Céline, and Louis Vuitton’s cast of trans and non-binary models, the season marked a welcome further push towards inclusivity.
At Givenchy, creative director Clare Waight Keller celebrated the androgynous beauty and pioneering spirit of Swiss writer and photographer Annemarie Schwarzenbach (as well as Lou Reed and Nico of the Velvet Underground). Not only did she send a collection made up of high-waisted, masculine trousers, languid silk shirts, and relaxed tailored styles down the runway, she also enlisted a number of models who bore more than a passing resemblance to Schwarzenbach to wear it.

In recent years, Schwarzenbach’s distinctive and mysterious glamour has captured the contemporary queer imagination, given her unique history. Born in Zurich in 1908, her life was one of contradictions: her struggle with physical fragility and opioid addiction co-existed with an adventurous streak and proclivity for global travel, while admirers and detractors have placed her on opposing sides of the artistic rebellion against Hitler in the 1930s.

In terms of style, her presentation was deliberately neither feminine or masculine, and, much like the SS19 Givenchy collection, instead walked the line somewhere in-between. With her short hair and understated wardrobe of slim trousers, neat shirts, and knitted sweaters, her beauty sat in stark contrast to what was deemed glamorous in the 30s and 40s, and she was all the more enigmatic for it. Captivating many who came into contact with her, she had many affairs with women throughout her short life. On a reporting trip to the Pyrenees, fellow photographer Marianne Breslauer took a picture of her, and wrote that “She was neither a man nor a woman, but an angel. An archangel.”
But who exactly was Annemarie Schwarzenbach, and what is it about her that so drew her admirers – and the contemporary queer, for whom she is a total pin-up – towards her?

Born Annemarie Minna Renée Schwarzenbach in 1908, Renée Schwarzenbach was raised as a boy near Lake Zurich by her father, who’d made his fortune in the silk industry and her mother, Renée Schwarzenbach-Mille, who descended from German aristocracy and was openly bisexual. Renée carried out an affair with German soprano Emmy Krüger, while also pursuing her passion for horses and photography. Annemarie took after her mother with her passion for adventure and her free-spirited nature, but their relationship was often fraught. Renée’s political loyalty to the reconstruction of Germany under Hitler during World War II, and the Schwarzenbachs’ sympathy for far-right Swiss Fronts, led to the deterioration of the familial bond. Annemarie denounced the fascist regime, moving with a circle that included Jews and political refugees exiled from the troubled country.

Schwarzenbach’s wanderings took her all over the globe. Despite a sensitive constitution, she cultivated a vast travelogue in her short life, and explored the Middle East, Asia, Europe, and America extensively. Having left behind a troubled home life, the photographer and writer moved first to Berlin, where she threw herself into the vibrant, bohemian nightlife and a hedonistic existence of drink and drugs, before marrying French diplomat Achille-Claude Clarac (who was also homosexual) to obtain a French diplomatic passport. The pair settled for a short time in Tehran, before Schwarzenbach left for Kabul, Lisbon, and the Balkans, never staying in one place too long.

“Fear makes us stubborn: we call reality only what we can grasp with our hands. War in other countries? Just twelve hours, twelve weeks from our borders? God forbid. But the journey ever so slightly lifts the veil over the mystery of space and a city with a magical, unreal name… becomes real the instant we set foot there and touch it with our living breath,” she wrote in her 1940 book All the Roads Are Open: The Afghan Journey, which documents her trip to Afghanistan with fellow writer Ella Maillart. The previous year, the pair had become the first women to travel the country’s Northern Road, as the fled the storm brewing in Europe in a beaten-up Ford.  




Schwarzenbach’s photographs offer unique insight into her singular vision. Best known, perhaps, for the images she captured of the Hitler Youth in Vienna or her self-portraits, she also extensively documented the people and sites she encountered during her wide travels. For the queer sensibility, it’s photos of Annemarie herself that most enchant though. Slim and pale, with deep-set eyes that seem to simultaneously look at and past the viewer, American novelist Carson McCullers wrote that “she had a face that would haunt me for the rest of my life”. She was often seen wearing a suit and a necktie, always with an unusual air of mystery. It’s likely this that so enchanted her queer admirers then, and continues to do so now. At a time when homosexuality was widely castigated, Schwarzenbach blazed a trail for living freely and unapologetically.

Schwarzenbach struggled with mental illness and substance abuse, both of which deeply impacted her outlook on life and work. Though she eventually died after a tragic bicycle accident in 1942, at just 34, Schwarzenbach’s chronic illnesses defined her life nearly as much as her adventurous spirit. Her trip to Afghanistan with Ella Maillart marked a decisive low in her physical and mental health, following a stint in rehab for a morphine addiction. Her physical fragility and the effect it had on her usual charisma eventually exhausted Maillart, who remarked honestly that she was sick of ‘Christina’ (as she referred to Annemarie) by the end of the journey. Maillart and Schwarzenbach’s progressive ideas about travel and photography also served as covers for the various vulnerabilities of traveling women in that era. They railed against the presumption of women’s physical inferiority via direct writing and photographs as well as their adopted, androgynous style of dress.

Annemarie Schwarzenbach’s influence is far further-reaching than just the Givenchy catwalk. Dressed by her mother in boys clothing throughout her childhood, she retained a preference for menswear throughout her life, and cultivated a style that still resonates today. Despite the physical tolls of her depression and addiction, Schwarzenbach blazed a path down the middle of more than just the binary between man and woman: she cultivated an intrepid persona, nearly unheard of for women, even as her body and mind presented untoward obstacles. At a time when women are fighting for equality, justice, and increasingly, simply to be heard, Schwarzenbach’s endurance in the name of curiosity and discovery is more than just a reference point – it’s an inspiration.

Revisiting the life of trailblazing queer heroine Annemarie Schwarzenbach. By Alexandra Julienne. Dazed , November 2, 2018. 





It was the summer of 1939, in the last weeks before war would sweep across Europe, and Annemarie Schwarzenbach and Ella K. Maillart were embarking on a 4,000-mile drive from Geneva to Kabul, Afghanistan, with the goal of curing Schwarzenbach of her morphine addiction.
At first it seemed as if this quixotic plan might be working: As the two women, both journalists and authors, made their way from Switzerland, through Italy and on into Yugoslavia, they stopped at roadside campsites and small village inns, choosing to steer clear of towns and cities where drugs might be available.

Indeed, one night, as they slept under the stars outside Belgrade, they were awakened by the sounds of village men cutting hay. Schwarzenbach, normally frail and intense, “seemed to revive,” Maillart wrote.

But then, further east, in Bulgaria, at a hotel in Sofia, Schwarzenbach had her first slip. She woke up “seedy,” pale and vomiting, Maillart wrote. That she was using drugs again became clear when Maillart discovered “the brittle glass of an empty ampoule” in the bathroom.
The women went on to endure a tense drive into Turkey, barely speaking, until, in Istanbul, Schwarzenbach turned to her friend and asked, “Why do you bother about me?”
“Why do I bother about you? … I don’t know,” Maillart recalled replying. “I can’t say it is because I love you, because I detest you when I see such gifts as yours spoilt as they are.”
The women would make it to Kabul but ultimately fail in their mission: Schwarzenbach fell back into old habits, and Maillart left her in frustration, going on to India and leaving Schwarzenbach in the hands of a pair of French archaeologists.




Schwarzenbach eventually made her way back to Europe by boat, and three years later she died in a bicycle accident in the Swiss mountains. But Maillart, who went on to enjoy a long career as a travel writer, did not forget her. In “The Cruel Way: Switzerland to Afghanistan in a Ford, 1939,” her account of their journey published in 1947, she would portray her friend as both tragic and transcendent.

And she would recant the declaration she had made in the car.
“I think I loved her profoundly,” she wrote.

Schwarzenbach was an accomplished journalist, novelist and photographer whose work was in many ways overshadowed by the drama of her life.
An heiress, she was born in Zurich on May 23, 1908, the daughter of a wealthy businessman. Her mother was the daughter of a general and a descendant of the Bismarck family. Early on, her mother, who was bisexual, dressed Annemarie in boys’ clothes. (Schwarzenbach would enjoy wearing men’s clothes for the rest of her life.)

Her androgynous glamour left a strong impression on the intellectual circles in which she mingled. The novelist Thomas Mann, whose children were close to Schwarzenbach, called her a “ravaged angel.” And the unrequited passion she inspired in the American author Carson McCullers would lead to a Suzanne Vega song, “Lover, Beloved,” written from McCullers’s point of view more than seven decades later. (“Everyone wants you / Everyone loves you / How can I possibly compete?”)
The photographer Marianne Breslauer, who made memorable images of Schwarzenbach, echoed Mann when she said that at first glance Schwarzenbach appeared to be neither man nor woman but “like the Archangel Gabriel.”

Schwarzenbach spent much of her adult life as an addict. She had numerous tumultuous love affairs with women. She had a complicated relationship with her family, who had Nazi sympathies. And she fell out with the Mann family, who thought her anti-fascism efforts were inadequate because she refused to cut ties with her Nazi-supporting relatives. It was an estrangement that hurt her profoundly, in part because she was in love with Thomas Mann’s daughter Erika Mann.
Schwarzenbach attempted suicide twice. After she died of her bicycle accident injuries at 34 on Nov. 15, 1942, in the Swiss town of Sils im Engadin — she had been showing off by riding with no hands — her mother, defying her daughter’s will, destroyed Schwarzenbach’s papers for fear of how they might reflect on the family.


Schwarzenbach’s work — ranging from striking photographs of Hitler youth to novels, from critiques of Swiss neutrality to travelogues from Central Asia — would not be rediscovered in her native Switzerland until the late 1980s, when the country began re-evaluating its World War II history. (Much of her written work is unavailable in English.)


One of her earliest books, “Lyric Novella,” tells the story of a young man from a wealthy family not unlike Schwarzenbach’s who rejects his family’s plans for him in order to pursue his obsession with a nightclub singer. The novel, said the book’s translator, Lucy Renner Jones, is a pitch-perfect portrait of an era in which to be a member of the upper class was to be a slave to family duty.
For all her seeming fragility, Schwarzenbach was adventurous. One of her best-known books, “Death in Persia,” was based on the years she lived in Tehran as a diplomat’s wife (a marriage of convenience; her husband was also gay). During that period she fell in love and had an affair with a Turkish diplomat’s daughter.

On her travels with Maillart from Switzerland to Afghanistan, the two women engaged in high-speed chases with the police in Azerbaijan and ran away from officials near the Iran-Afghanistan border. (Maillart died in her mountain chalet in Switzerland in 1997 and received an obituary in The Times.)
Schwarzenbach also spent time in the United States as a freelance reporter and photographer, traveling in the Deep South and across Pennsylvania, focusing on the mining and steel industries there. Her photographs from those travels reveal a journalist intensely interested in the social dynamics around her.

And though Mann and others saw Schwarzenbach as a beautiful but troubled soul, they may have been buying what she was selling. She knew very well what effect she had on people and cultivated her public persona carefully, according to her great-nephew Alexis Schwarzenbach, a historian who has written a book about her. “That was part of the package,” he said.

In the decades since she was rediscovered, Schwarzenbach has become something of a cult figure in Europe, though just what she represents remains unsettled. To some she was an anti-fascist; to others, her anti-fascism did not go far enough. To some she was an early L.B.G.T. heroine; to others she was remarkable for her refusal to be defined by any gender conventions.
In one of the most famous images of her taken by Breslauer, Schwarzenbach, in her mid-20s, wears a fitted sweater over a collared shirt. Her hair close cropped, she stares straight at the camera. She is unsmiling, her face half obscured by shadow, her expression languorous. It’s a remarkable face, onto which many things can be projected.

Overlooked No More: Annemarie Schwarzenbach, Author, Photographer and ‘Ravaged Angel’. By Alicia P.q. Wittmeyer. The New York Times , October 10, 2018.








Buried in the folds of his-story, Annemarie Schwarzenbach was a widely published lesbian author. Born in 1908, Schwarzenbach died young, at the age of 34. By then, she’d attempted suicide twice, after years of self-harm. Schwarzenbach defied sexist norms. Those ‘norms’ were sexist and damaging then, and they’re still sexist and damaging now.

Annemarie Schwarzenbach was haunted by a world that considered her incorrectly female—So why have there been so many attempts to revise her story, recategorize and relabel her, postmortem, only to say the same? It’s not only unethical, it robs lesbians of what few pages we have in the his-story books. If we can be revised after we’re dead, by the very thing we fight against while we’re alive, then what are we fighting for?

Dazed recently reported that Schwarzenbach “was raised as a boy.” This is a prime example of the ways in which things have been taken out of context to perpetuate sexist ideas. There’s been a media push to rebrand Schwarzenbach as ‘on the outskirts of womanhood.’
Although historically, girls were forced to abide by the rigid rules of ‘gender’ (stereotypes designated based on sex), Schwarzenbach’s parents didn’t force her to conform to ‘norms.’ On the contrary… As a child, she sported short hair, and wore comfortable clothes that were (and still are) categorized as ‘boy’s clothes.’ It’s been said that she was raised “like a boy,” not “as a boy.” And in the context of that time period, that statement refers to the stereotypes, roles and freedoms that were only granted to boys.

Until 1987, Schwarzenbach was forgotten. Her great nephew, historian Alexis Schwarzenbach, didn’t know much about her, until he discovered one of her novels on a bookshelf.
“I went to my grandmother and said, ‘I didn’t know grandfather’s sister was a writer’. And she said, ‘yes, she was a writer, and a lesbian and a morphine addict.’ ”—Swiss Info 

The mainstream media’s erasure of the word “lesbian,” is a major point of contention that the lesbian community has expressed, time and time again. In a recent article by The New York Times, about Schwarzenbach, the word “lesbian” is never used… Not even once. The article refers to Schwarzenbach as “gay,” and her husband as “also gay,” and calls Schwarzenbach an “L.B.G.T. heroine.”

By the age of 23, Schwarzenbach published her first novel, which was very well received. In ten years, she published several novels and produced more than 300 articles, and 5,000 photographs from her journeys across the world. Annemarie Schwarzenbach was finally unearthed from his-story, only to be buried in sexism and lesphobia, once again.

Schwarzenbach is one of the many women who’ve been resurrected and popularized in mainstream culture to bolster false narratives. Narratives that not only maintain the regressive idea that there’s a wrong way to be a girl, a wrong way to be a woman, but also further enshrine lesphobia.
Continuing to equate ‘femininity’ with ‘womanhood’ is about as sexist as it gets. And yet, here we are. Women who dare to claw their way out of the man-made box (of roles and expectations), deserve to be celebrated—Not reinvented postmortem, in order to further cement the very stereotypes that put them in that box to begin with.

Though Schwarzenbach’s beauty caught the eye of men and women alike, her ‘androgynous’ style left her vulnerable to regular abuse. She was a trailblazer who defied sexist expectations—But for women who don’t look and behave the way people think a woman “should” look and behave, the price is often high.

Schwarzenbach spent most of her adult life trying to escape. She wrote, took photos, traveled, drank, used drugs, and was known to regularly stay awake till the break of dawn.
She also kept away from her family, one of the wealthiest families in Switzerland. She had major political disagreements with her mother, who was a Nazi sympathizer, known to be domineering. Her mother was bisexual, and her father tolerated his wife’s extramarital affairs with women.
After Schwarzenbach had a brief affair with a German writer, Erika Mann, she settled into the Mann family’s home and became an ‘adopted’ part of their family. She spent a good deal of time hanging out with Erika’s gay brother, Klaus Mann, in Berlin. Schwarzenbach started using drugs and was introduced to morphine.

Annemarie Schwarzenbach and the Mann family, were vehemently anti-Nazi. Her association with the family caused major conflict with her parents—Especially her mother, who took issue with Schwarzenbach’s circle, which included Jewish people and political refugees.
Like many lesbians (who don’t conform to norms), Schwarzenbach, who was regularly dehumanized, was driven to self-harm. Her addiction haunted her. And in her mid-twenties, she attempted suicide for the first time, after a scandalous affair with the daughter of a Turkish Ambassador. Her family was embarrassed by the suicide attempt, rather than concerned.

Shortly thereafter, she married a French diplomat, Claude Clarac. It was a marriage of convenience that not only provided her with a diplomatic passport (which allowed her to travel freely), but also covered up the fact that they were both gay. But after only five months, she grew restless and left him to travel. Further romantic involvements with women and the resulting persecution, would eventually lead to her downfall.


The persecution she faced, is still alive and well today. “Lesbian” is still a word people hesitate to utter. And the mainstream has continually sanctioned the abuse of ‘butch’ lesbians—Still casting them as unflattering caricatures, no more than a ‘she’s really a man’ punchline. The sexism and lesphobia behind the abuse, is not only a reflection of fragile masculinity, it’s a reflection of how deeply ingrained misogyny is in most people. The resulting cruelty comes with real world consequences.

While the mainstream media has a long history of obsessively trying to expunge ‘masculine’ lesbians from the category of womanhood, ‘androgynous’ women are quite often the epitome of female beauty, the best womankind has to offer.

The media frequently uses an inaccurately translated quote, taken out of context, to push the idea that Schwarzenbach was something other than a woman because of her style—“She was neither a man nor a woman, but an angel, an archangel.” Revisionists have used this version, of a poetic statement (spoken in admiration, by fellow photographer Marianne Breslauer), to build a new narrative about Annemarie Schwarzenbach.

The sexist notion that girls and women should inherently want to dress and behave a certain way, is encoded in us from the time we are born. It’s in everything around us, from movies, to magazines. It’s the very reason women like Schwarzenbach are being revised and ‘othered,’ postmortem. Many people never realize the depths to which we’ve been universally brainwashed.
Annemarie Schwarzenbach was known to be introspective, sensitive and passionate. In her photos, she appears incredibly stylish. Women never needed men to tell us what was sexy—We already knew.
Schwarzenbach tried to run, but no road would ever lead to the escape of her demons. In 1936, she went on a road trip, in the United States, with American photographer Barbara Hamilton-Wright, and documented the industrial regions of the Northeast during the Great Depression. The following year, they went again, and she documented the Deep South. The rift between Schwarzenbach and her family grew.

In 1939, Schwarzenbach tried again to overcome addiction, by going on a road trip with fellow writer, Ella Maillart, from Geneva to Afganistan. Eventually, she got ahold of a morphine substitute and they parted ways. Schwarzenbach then had a love affair with Ella Maillart’s married friend, French archaeologist Ria Hackin, causing such a scandal, she was forbidden to travel in Turkmenistan.

She went back to the United States to work with the Mann siblings, on a committee that helped refugees from Europe. There she met writer Carson McCullers, who reportedly fell head over heels for Schwarzenbach. “She had a face that I knew would haunt me for the rest of my life,” Carson McCullers said.

Let’s take a quick detour here, because McCullers is also among a growing number of women who’ve had their lives revised, postmortem. A writer in The New Yorker, explained her decision to write Carson McCullers as a “man,” in a play and in a movie, stating, “I started to notice that McCullers had issues with her gender…Her given name was Lula, but she took on her middle name, Carson…” I’m not sure what this proves… My friends called me Jay, ages 6-12. In high school, I was called Little Joe. Siri calls me Big Daddy. My current sign out is JD. And I also go by the nickname Romeo.


As further ‘proof,’ the writer goes on to say “[Carson McCullers] wore men’s clothes, and was often photographed in a suit. Her main protagonists were young, boyish girls with men’s names: Frankie and Mick.” I wear ‘men’s clothes.’ I’ve been photographed in a suit. My protagonists have so-called ‘men’s names.’ Check, check, and check.

The writer then concludes that “…had [Carson McCullers] been alive today… she might have been living as a transgender man.” Adding, “She did once tell Capote, ‘I think I was born a boy,’ which doesn’t, in and of itself, mean much—but how many of us, as little girls, have never had that thought? Most.” On the contrary, most of us have had that thought. In fact, my wife and I don’t know any lesbians who didn’t have that experience—It’s a common theme with young lesbians, as we grapple with sexist expectations, limitations and same-sex attraction.
Are all women who break stereotypes going to be up for revision, postmortem? If we’re going on the basis of sexist stereotypes, every lesbian I know could be recategorized after death.
Annemarie Schwarzenbach is summed up in one line, in this same article in The New Yorker: “McCullers was deeply in love with a Swiss journalist, a lesbian drug addict named Annemarie Schwarzenbach.”

“A lesbian drug addict.” The way in which our history is so thoughtlessly mangled and relayed by mainstream media, is appalling. Schwarzenbach, a tortured soul and brilliant icon, was so much more than “a lesbian drug addict.”
Schwarzenbach never became involved with Carson McCullers. At the time, she was involved in a troubled relationship with a married woman, Margot von Opel, and she still had feelings for Erika Mann, who cut her out of her life.

Annemarie Schwarzenbach’s mental health further declined, and she attempted suicide once again. This landed her in a psychiatric hospital in 1940, where she was held, until 1941. After Schwarzenbach was released, she returned to Switzerland. She then went to the Belgian Congo of Central Africa, after which she took a two month trip to visit Claude Clarac.
On September 7th, in 1942, Annemarie Schwarzenbach fell from her bike, in the Alps of Switzerland, and struck her head. She was in a coma for three days and she woke with amnesia. Her mother wouldn’t permit Claude or any of her friends to see her. She was kept in the family home in Switzerland, where she didn’t recognize anyone, and died nine weeks later, in November of 1942. Her mother set all of her daughter’s letters and diaries on fire, but her published works remain.


Annemarie Schwarzenbach Died Defying Sexist ‘Norms,’ Only to be Redefined, Postmortem, By Sexist ‘Norms’. By Julia Diana Roberston . The Velvet Chronicle,  March 28, 2019.